In 1542, the missionary Fray Juan de San Miguel established a tiny settlement known as San Miguel Viejo. It was a frontier outpost constantly threatened by hostile Indians. Spanish soldiers and families of Spanish settlers came and the new hamlet was moved to the slope of Moctezuma Hill where fresh springs provided water. Soon, a royal charter was created for the town known as San Miguel El Grande. For more than two and one half centuries, San Miguel thrived under the repressive but orderly rule of Spain, as it was a link on the silver route to Mexico City. In 1810 revolution flared, led by Captain Ignacio Allende of San Miguel and Father Miguel Hidalgo of the nearby town of Dolores. For eleven years the revolution was fought. Finally, after a Mexican victory over the Spanish, the town was renamed San Miguel de Allende, honoring Don Ignacio Allende, its greatest son and martyr to freedom.

Travel writers have often called San Miguel "the prettiest town in Mexico". That remark has become a cliche. Yet, like all cliches, it has basis in fact. San Miguel is the most charming of all Mexican towns. Today, its chief fame is as an art center and home to hundreds of foreign residents, not artistic themselves, but attracted by the atmosphere the arts create. Most of these residents are fiercely partisan about their community, quickly pointing out that although many tourists visit, its real life goes on quietly but busily behind the unrevealing walls of its homes and gardens. A stranger who harps on the defects of living here is likely to be met with a cold stare and a classic retort. "Of course, San Miguel is not perfect -- it is merely heaven."

Written by Stirling Dickinson, Brandeburgh Press, November 1969.